Thursday, November 29, 2007

Jack and Jill

Jack and Jill went up the hill to fetch a bucket of ?money. Money? They are continuing to fill their bucket with stocks without any consideration to the value of these equities. They are not worried at all as they are buying "safe" mutual funds.

Everyone knows mutual funds are safe. Jack and Jill know they don't know how to pick good stocks so they leave that to the fund manager. He is an expert.

When you look at the long term record of 99% of the mutual funds you will see that expertise has been sadly lacking. I hate to remind you of the 2000 to 2003 period, but I must. In fact I must tell you it is going to happen again. Now you want to know when?.and so do I.

And that is the problem with almost every fund manager. As long as the market is going up they can't do much damage to your account, but when it rolls over and heads down they have no idea how to invest when a bear market is in progress. Not a single one of them will acknowledge that cash is a position.

Cash is a position? They are in shock. Of course they are. If brokerage customers put their money in a money market account while the market is falling it means they do not make any commission at all and if they recommend this to their customers the brokerage manager will fire them because he won't make any money either. "Keep your customers fully invested or I'll show you the door" is the manager's comment.

You must learn when to sell. Any fool can buy, but it is the wise man who knows when to sell. To see the condition of the overall market one of the best indicators is the SP500 Index. Your broker compares everything he does with the SP500 because it is a broad base of 500 stocks that are widely traded.

The finest indicator is the SP500 Index. Draw a 40-week chart of the closing prices. If you don't know how ask your broker. He will tell you. Write it down and save it. It is very simple. Have him set up a 40-week Simple Moving Average to appear on that chart. Look at 5 years worth of prices. Immediately you will see that if you are in the market while the 40-week MA is going up you are making money and if you are out of all your positions while the index average is going down you will not lose money. It doesn't get any easier that that.

Jack and Jill can fill their pail as the market is going up and need not spill their accumulation while they walk confidently down the hill holding their bucket full of cash not equities.

Stock Market System ... ONLINE STOCK TRADING ... Beyond Day Trading Basics & Tips

Day trading is all about making buy and sell decisions. When you make a trade either your going to lose money or your going to make money, and some other times you will break even. When you win some body else will lose and so forth, but that's NOT what's important.

The most important aspect of day trading is the knowledge FILTER you employ to make your buy/sell decisions. There are many "fantastic" strategies outhere, but you need to test them in order to discover which ones help you the most. That's part of your homework as a daytrader. Test, test and test again.

Complicated strategies that rely on a "boat load" of technical indicators can make you slow, and being slow in this game can be as dangerous as not knowing what to do in the first place.

I think the worst thing that can happen to a beginner trader is to get information overload. It's better to go step by step, and test a simple strategy that can show you how to focus on concrete ways to make money.

Fortunatly there are some good sites on the web today that can show you how to trade in a practical and effective way. One of those sites is Profitable Stock Market ( ProfitableStockMarket.com )

In the end, day trading is all about buying and selling according to your knowledge FILTER. Once you master and follow youre proven filter parameters like a clock, you can expect to start making serious amounts of cash on a consistent basis.

Series 7 Exam

If you are looking to become a licensed Stockbroker, you need to know about the Series 7.

The Series 7 is a 250 question exam that when passed, licenses you to act as a Registered Representative. Persons who receive this license are allowed to sell most securities. These securities would include: Stock, Bonds, Options, Mutual Funds and Annuities. The license itself is active while you are practicing it. Practicing with a Series 7 means that you are either employed or affiliated with a member firm. If you leave the business, your license will still remain active for 2 years after your last day with the firm. If you do not re-enter the business within 2 years, your license will expire. You would then have to re-take the exam again.

The Series 7 exam itself is comprised of many topics although not equally divided. Approximately 50 questions will be on Municipal Bonds alone. Other major topics include Options, Industry Rules and Customer Account handling.

The SERIES 7 is a multiple choice test graded on 250 questions administered on computer by an NASD testing vendor (Prometric Technology Center). 70% is needed to pass the SERIES 7 Exam. You will be given 6 hours to complete the exam in two 3 hour parts. Each question is worth .4 of a point. 175 questions correct will equal a passing grade. The score is not curved or rounded up so yes, if you get 174 questions right, you will get a 69.6% and you will fail. Each part also includes 5 experimental questions, which do not count on your total score. You will not know which ones are the experimental questions. Each exam is different, meaning if you take your test next to someone else, your test will not be the same. The percentages will be the same but the questions that each individual is tested on will be random. This applies to all Licensing exams but the difference between tests is less with smaller content exams like the Series 63.

You will be given a calculator to use at the center. Applicants are not permitted to bring their own. Scrap paper will be given to you as well for you to use during the test. Once the test officially starts you can write down anything you want (Formulas, Rules etc.). The computer also offers the student the ability to change their answers at the end of the first or second part of the test. Meaning, if you wish to change an answer to a question in the first half, you will have to wait until the end of the first half to do it. Once the second half starts, you will be unable to view your first half. Basically, you are taking 2 different 125 question exams. Even if you are unsure what the correct answer to a question is, you must enter something before the next question is shown.

Don't Cheat: Today, the testing centers require fingerprint verification when you take your test. A student was caught a few years ago on camera cheating in the testing room. This person had a tiny video camera device on his tie and a listening transmitter in his ear. He was actually filming his screen while someone else at another location was feeding him the answers. I didn't believe this one at first but several people told it to me. Pretty amazing. Needless to say, he was nabbed and busted. Just study and you will pass....and maybe learn something too!

Why Investors Use Financial Planners

Do you have a financial planner? Does one of your friends have a financial planner? Maybe you take your advice from your broker. As I have said countless times before a broker will make you broker. And a financial planner won't do any better. I know. You thought they would.

Let's look at the real reason investors choose to take advice from these so called "experts". Once they get you into their office or sitting with you at the dining room table or kitchen table you are doomed. Mr. F.P. has come prepared with beautiful slick color brochures and will have a presentation that will utterly confuse, bedazzle and befuddle. You will sit there and be afraid to ask a question because you know it is so dumb. You can't say 'no' or you will be admitting how dumb you are. And he knows that.

It is not that he is a liar. (I hope.) It is that all financial planners and brokers are taught the Wall Street method of "making money". Unfortunately it doesn't work.

The basic things that have been pounded into their heads are false. Let's look at the big three: Do Research, Dollar Cost Average and Buy and Hold. There are others, but these you will hear from every broker and financial planner because that is what the big brokerage companies and mutual fund families want. They want your money and they want to keep it even when the stocks or funds you own go down. In fact, buy some more.

Research is like blowing in the wind. You will be inundated with green sheets, blue sheets, red sheets, slick full color glossies, videos, etc., etc. Think about this. If you can obtain this information then so can everyone else. Everything that is known about a particular stock is reflected in the last price. Morningstar will sell you a beautiful package about a company, but it is worthless. What you really want to know is will it go up after I buy it?

Of course, if it goes down you will be encouraged to buy more to average out your price so that when it heads up again you will make a fortune. Yes, and pigs can fly.

If it does go down your advisor may say to hold on as the market always comes back. He doesn't tell you it may take 20 years or that the company might go out of business. Buy and Hold is the greatest myth of Wall Street. No one ever tells you to sell. Have you been told you don't have a loss until you take it? Please!

You got that advisor because you have not admitted to your self that you cannot pull the trigger. When you have a stock or fund that is falling you don't want to sell. You have to take charge of your money. Just you.

When you look back at the performance of most financial planners from 2000 to 2003 you know you can do a better job. Always ask to see what they did then. If they lost money you don't want them. Don't let them compare their performance to the S&P500. That's smoke and mirrors.

KISS Formula

There are formulas for just about everything, but it has been shown that the simpler the formula or method of doing a particular task the better it works. It has evolved down to KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.

This also applies to trading in the stock market. There are literally hundreds of formulas, both technical and fundamental that are easily available to investors. Each trader has his own method he uses. Every professional trader on the floor of the stock exchange has his own variation on some major proven formula. The more skilled he becomes with it the more he feels it is the best one.

Sometimes it takes years for a trader to settle on one method or group of methods that he uses to signal buys and sells. It took me many years to find that technical group that worked for me when I was an exchange member.

For some it evolves into long term trading and for others it can be buying and selling in a matter of minutes. The time period is not important. The method is. Even as a floor trader on the commodity exchange I had only two criteria I watched before entering into any position.

All professional traders and investors are aware of the single most important fact and that is how much I am willing to lose before I exit this new position. Every KISS formula has an exit strategy. Every professional knows in advance how much he will allow himself to lose if he is wrong. The professional does not set a limit on the winning side of a trade only on the losing side.

Ask any full time professional and he will tell you if he is right 50% of the time he considers that to be phenomenal. When I was on the floor I was only right about 40% of the time, even about 20% and wrong about 40%. BUT I made $3.00 for every dollar I lost. Small losses and big winners are the key to success. This is the key to any profitable formula - keeping the losses small.

When I see advertisements in the financial papers for methods claiming to be right 80%, 90% of the time I cringe. It just can't be. There is no trader I ever met who was that good and I have known some exceptional traders.

The major text on technical analysis is "Technical Analysis of Stock Trends" by Edwards and Magee now in the 17th printing of the Fifth Edition that lists multitudes of methods. They all work, but many are complicated. A magazine called Futures Truth analyses 200 commodity trading systems in each issue. Fundamental Theory is equally complex.

There are software programs that allow the investors to enter as many as 30 parameters. The more complex it is the less chance it has to work. And the biggest obstacle to any program is the trader himself. He cannot hesitate when a buy or sell signal is given

Different Ways of Buying Stocks

Let's say you are interested in this one company. You read its annual report, like what you see and your calculation indicates that the stock is trading way below its fair value. You are excited. It is time to buy! Hang on for a second. There are several techniques of buying stocks out there. Some are better than the other. Let me explore several useful ones.

Buy all at limit price. Assume that we have done our research and we want to invest $ 2000 to buy stock XYZ at $ 12/share. We can do this by setting a limit order of $ 12/share to buy 166 shares of XYZ. The advantage for this method is that we will not pay more than $ 12 for our XYZ share. If you use market order, instead of limit order, XYZ might run up to $ 13/share and execute your order at $ 12.50. Fifty cents may not sound a lot, but in this case, you just saves $ 83 for using limit order. Any better methods? Check out this next one.

Buying half at $12. Buying half when it drops. Stock market is volatile. It goes up and down due to various reasons. In this case, we set a limit order to buy $ 1000 worth of XYZ at $ 12/share. When XYZ drops lower, and if you think that the reason that you initially bought it is still valid, then you can buy more XYZ at a lower price. If XYZ drops by $ 1, you already save $ 83 off the bag. What else is there?

Dollar Cost Averaging (DCA). With DCA, investors normally buy a specified dollar of stock at regular intervals. In this case, you can decide to invest $ 500 monthly in XYZ stock. If the XYZ stock falls, you can buy more shares next month. If XYZ stock rises, you would buy less. But it is ok. You already made money on XYZ stocks that you bought at a lower price.

Which method is the best? There is no clear cut answer on this. Personally, I will never use market order when buying a stock. Commission for buying a limit order is not as expensive as it used to be. My favorite methods is by buying half position initially and then add half more when the share price drops. If you have done your research and you feel that $ 12 per share is a good buy, then why won't you buy some more if it goes down to $ 10? Just make sure that the fundamental remains the same when the stock drops.

While knowing how to initiate your position is important, I am more inclined in focusing on how to calculate fair value of a stock. This is where the bulk of your investment return comes from.

Friday, October 26, 2007

Student Home Purchase Plan

Tuition costs are climbing, housing costs are climbing, it seems like all the costs for students are climbing these days. Students can afford cost increases less than any other demographic in Canada. Because of this, parents and students alike are looking for new ways to offset the costs of education.
Student loans can be used to defer these costs to some extent, but they need to be repaid after graduation. It's difficult to climb the corporate ladder or get ahead in life when you have $30,000 worth of debt before your first job is even found!
Bursaries, grants, and scholarships are another great source of funding for a student. However, the amount of money available is thinning, and the competition is growing stiffer for this money each year.
The average student, over a 4 year degree, pays over $16,000 in tuition and books. Housing costs approximately $38,000 for a 4 year degree. This is based on rent of $800 per month for 48 months.
This means the total cost of education for a student is over $54,000 before paying for any clothes, food, or recreational expenses. Given that the average student doesn't qualify for more than about $9000/year in student loans, this means an average student needs to find over $18,000 during their 4 year education career to be able to go to school. Not to mention the cost of food and clothes.
So how does a student get ahead in life, avoid massive student loans, and still get an education?
Many parents have been turning to Real Estate as a solution for a solution. Let me explain what they're doing?
When their first child enrolls in university, the parents purchase a small home with easy access to the University. The more bedrooms the better! This opens many possibilities for the parents, as well as the students.
First, the property will likely appreciate in value, presenting the parents with equity that can later be used to repay student loans or their own personal use.
Second, the rent the student would have paid to a landlord or dormitory is being used to repay the mortgage, creating more equity in the property.
Third, being a rental property, the tax benefits of the property are fabulous. Any interest paid on the mortgage is a write-off. Maintenance and improvements, as well as taxes and often utilities, are expenses that can be written off.
Fourth, there is the potential for additional tenants. Suppose you were to purchase a 3 bedroom bungalow for approximately $150,000. The cost of the mortgage would be approximately $900; based on a 5.5% 25 year mortgage with 5% down payment. That's just $100 dollars more than rent on a typical 1 bedroom apartment close to the University of Alberta right now.
Your child finds 2 roommates to share expenses with. They each pay you $600 per month; the tenants are then saving $200 per month over the cost of renting an apartment. A good deal for them!
Your total revenue on the home is $1200 per month. Your child lives for free, and clears $300 per month, which can be put towards living expenses and spending money. Now your child can go to school, not work, and focus on studying.
What if you were to finish the basement with an additional 2 bedrooms? That would essentially double your income, or allow you to "clear" $1500 per month. Your child gets $500 per month for expenses and living, and there's an additional $12000/year ($100/month) to be put towards tuition, books, and other university expenses.
Let's look at this again, using 2 family as examples. The Smith's and the Jones'.
The Smiths send their son, Steve, to university for 4 years. He rents an apartment in residence for $800 per month while going to school. His tuition, including books, is about $4000. Spending money, clothing, and food costs are approximately $500 per month. So Steve's annual costs are approximately $20,000 annually.
Student loans and scholarships (assuming Scott qualifies) cover approximately half of this, leaving him and his parents to cover the rest. Scott has to get a part time job to pay for some of it, and work full time in the summers to help.
The Smiths struggle through, using their savings and hard work to get through a tough 4 years. When Scott graduates, he has to start repaying is $30,000-$35,000 in student loans. He'll be making that payment for the next 10 years?
Now let's look at the Jones'.
The Jones' purchase a home close to the school for their daughter Sally. They make a 5% down payment ($7500) on a home worth $150,000. It has 3+2 bedrooms. Their daughter lives in 1 room, and manages the rest of the tenants in exchange for free rent and a monthly allowance of $500 to cover her living expenses. Each of the additional 4 rooms are rented for $600 per month including utilities and laundry. A great deal for ANY student.
Each month Sally collects the rent from her 4 roommates, totaling $2400. She keeps her $500, and deposits the rest into a bank account dedicated to the property. The mortgage and taxes get paid each month from that same account. Together, these cost $1100 ($900 for the mortgage and $200 for the taxes). That leaves an end-of-the month profit of $800 for the property. That money just sits in the account in case of emergencies, repairs, or other unforeseen expenses.
Remember, the taxes and interest on the mortgage are tax write-offs at the end of the year for Mr. & Mrs. Jones.
At the end of the first year, September to December, there is $3200 worth of cash in the bank account, or roughly 50% of the initial down payment. Sally is happy because they can use that money to pay for Sally's 2nd semester tuition without any student loans, not to mention that she hasn't needed to work a job while going to school.
Mr. And Mrs. Jones are happy because of the great tax write-offs they get from the property, plus Sally has no excuses for not getting good grades.
Over the summer, the house pays for Sally to take some extra curricular courses, or perhaps do some traveling. Maybe she even just lounges around the yard and does nothing. She has options because she doesn't have to work.
By the start of September of the next year (beginning of Sally's 2nd year at university), the Jones' have collected $6400 in revenue from the property. Sally's tuition for the next semester is paid, so are her books and she's living for free. The cycle continues for the rest of her time at university.
At the end of the 4 years, they have profited over $20,000 in cash after all expenses. They have also been paying down the mortgage and the property has likely increased in value.
Sally hasn't worked a single day while at school, she has absolutely no student loans, and is fresh and ready for the work force. She's carrying no debt, so she quickly gets ahead in life.
Sally graduates with honors because she could focus on her studies and not worry about making money for school. Total investment from the Jones': $7500 in the initial deposit plus Sally's first semester tuition of approx. $2000.
Total profits; $35,000 in cash and equity. Is it any wonder why we're all trying to keep up with the Jones'!
But it doesn't stop there?
The Jones' now have to figure out what to do with the property. Sell it? Sure. They would net a tidy profit from the home. Remember, the mortgage has been paid down for the last 4 years, as well as the value increases of the home over those 4 years.
But let's say they keep the home and rent out the entire property to students. Their total revenue could be as high as $3000 per month, or $1900 after mortgages and taxes. And that's assuming that the rental rate hasn't gone up over the 4 years?
If you were the Jones', you could go to www.mercedesbenz.ca, pick out his and hers Mercedes convertibles, and not pay a dime for them. The leases would be covered every month by the $1900 in revenue.
For being such great parents, and paying for your child's entire education, you deserve a couple of convertibles don't you?!?
All figures are approximate, and provided as examples only. Some properties may not perform as well, while some may perform better. To select a good investment property, contact a real estate professional like John Carle and Sharon Gregresh. We do not guarantee good grades for your children at school.

Student Home Purchase Plan

Tuition costs are climbing, housing costs are climbing, it seems like all the costs for students are climbing these days. Students can afford cost increases less than any other demographic in Canada. Because of this, parents and students alike are looking for new ways to offset the costs of education.
Student loans can be used to defer these costs to some extent, but they need to be repaid after graduation. It's difficult to climb the corporate ladder or get ahead in life when you have $30,000 worth of debt before your first job is even found!
Bursaries, grants, and scholarships are another great source of funding for a student. However, the amount of money available is thinning, and the competition is growing stiffer for this money each year.
The average student, over a 4 year degree, pays over $16,000 in tuition and books. Housing costs approximately $38,000 for a 4 year degree. This is based on rent of $800 per month for 48 months.
This means the total cost of education for a student is over $54,000 before paying for any clothes, food, or recreational expenses. Given that the average student doesn't qualify for more than about $9000/year in student loans, this means an average student needs to find over $18,000 during their 4 year education career to be able to go to school. Not to mention the cost of food and clothes.
So how does a student get ahead in life, avoid massive student loans, and still get an education?
Many parents have been turning to Real Estate as a solution for a solution. Let me explain what they're doing?
When their first child enrolls in university, the parents purchase a small home with easy access to the University. The more bedrooms the better! This opens many possibilities for the parents, as well as the students.
First, the property will likely appreciate in value, presenting the parents with equity that can later be used to repay student loans or their own personal use.
Second, the rent the student would have paid to a landlord or dormitory is being used to repay the mortgage, creating more equity in the property.
Third, being a rental property, the tax benefits of the property are fabulous. Any interest paid on the mortgage is a write-off. Maintenance and improvements, as well as taxes and often utilities, are expenses that can be written off.
Fourth, there is the potential for additional tenants. Suppose you were to purchase a 3 bedroom bungalow for approximately $150,000. The cost of the mortgage would be approximately $900; based on a 5.5% 25 year mortgage with 5% down payment. That's just $100 dollars more than rent on a typical 1 bedroom apartment close to the University of Alberta right now.
Your child finds 2 roommates to share expenses with. They each pay you $600 per month; the tenants are then saving $200 per month over the cost of renting an apartment. A good deal for them!
Your total revenue on the home is $1200 per month. Your child lives for free, and clears $300 per month, which can be put towards living expenses and spending money. Now your child can go to school, not work, and focus on studying.
What if you were to finish the basement with an additional 2 bedrooms? That would essentially double your income, or allow you to "clear" $1500 per month. Your child gets $500 per month for expenses and living, and there's an additional $12000/year ($100/month) to be put towards tuition, books, and other university expenses.
Let's look at this again, using 2 family as examples. The Smith's and the Jones'.
The Smiths send their son, Steve, to university for 4 years. He rents an apartment in residence for $800 per month while going to school. His tuition, including books, is about $4000. Spending money, clothing, and food costs are approximately $500 per month. So Steve's annual costs are approximately $20,000 annually.
Student loans and scholarships (assuming Scott qualifies) cover approximately half of this, leaving him and his parents to cover the rest. Scott has to get a part time job to pay for some of it, and work full time in the summers to help.
The Smiths struggle through, using their savings and hard work to get through a tough 4 years. When Scott graduates, he has to start repaying is $30,000-$35,000 in student loans. He'll be making that payment for the next 10 years?
Now let's look at the Jones'.
The Jones' purchase a home close to the school for their daughter Sally. They make a 5% down payment ($7500) on a home worth $150,000. It has 3+2 bedrooms. Their daughter lives in 1 room, and manages the rest of the tenants in exchange for free rent and a monthly allowance of $500 to cover her living expenses. Each of the additional 4 rooms are rented for $600 per month including utilities and laundry. A great deal for ANY student.
Each month Sally collects the rent from her 4 roommates, totaling $2400. She keeps her $500, and deposits the rest into a bank account dedicated to the property. The mortgage and taxes get paid each month from that same account. Together, these cost $1100 ($900 for the mortgage and $200 for the taxes). That leaves an end-of-the month profit of $800 for the property. That money just sits in the account in case of emergencies, repairs, or other unforeseen expenses.
Remember, the taxes and interest on the mortgage are tax write-offs at the end of the year for Mr. & Mrs. Jones.
At the end of the first year, September to December, there is $3200 worth of cash in the bank account, or roughly 50% of the initial down payment. Sally is happy because they can use that money to pay for Sally's 2nd semester tuition without any student loans, not to mention that she hasn't needed to work a job while going to school.
Mr. And Mrs. Jones are happy because of the great tax write-offs they get from the property, plus Sally has no excuses for not getting good grades.
Over the summer, the house pays for Sally to take some extra curricular courses, or perhaps do some traveling. Maybe she even just lounges around the yard and does nothing. She has options because she doesn't have to work.
By the start of September of the next year (beginning of Sally's 2nd year at university), the Jones' have collected $6400 in revenue from the property. Sally's tuition for the next semester is paid, so are her books and she's living for free. The cycle continues for the rest of her time at university.
At the end of the 4 years, they have profited over $20,000 in cash after all expenses. They have also been paying down the mortgage and the property has likely increased in value.
Sally hasn't worked a single day while at school, she has absolutely no student loans, and is fresh and ready for the work force. She's carrying no debt, so she quickly gets ahead in life.
Sally graduates with honors because she could focus on her studies and not worry about making money for school. Total investment from the Jones': $7500 in the initial deposit plus Sally's first semester tuition of approx. $2000.
Total profits; $35,000 in cash and equity. Is it any wonder why we're all trying to keep up with the Jones'!
But it doesn't stop there?
The Jones' now have to figure out what to do with the property. Sell it? Sure. They would net a tidy profit from the home. Remember, the mortgage has been paid down for the last 4 years, as well as the value increases of the home over those 4 years.
But let's say they keep the home and rent out the entire property to students. Their total revenue could be as high as $3000 per month, or $1900 after mortgages and taxes. And that's assuming that the rental rate hasn't gone up over the 4 years?
If you were the Jones', you could go to www.mercedesbenz.ca, pick out his and hers Mercedes convertibles, and not pay a dime for them. The leases would be covered every month by the $1900 in revenue.
For being such great parents, and paying for your child's entire education, you deserve a couple of convertibles don't you?!?
All figures are approximate, and provided as examples only. Some properties may not perform as well, while some may perform better. To select a good investment property, contact a real estate professional like John Carle and Sharon Gregresh. We do not guarantee good grades for your children at school.

Mortgage Prepayment Penalties - Just Say No

One of the most common terms found in a new home loan is a prepayment penalty. This type of penalty says that if the borrower pays off the loan early, commonly during the first five years of the loan, then the borrower will be responsible for paying an additional amount of money, typically about six months interest on 80% of the mortgage balance. Sub-prime market loans will typically carry prepayment penalties more than standard mortgage loans.
You may plan on keeping the house for the entire duration of the prepayment penalty, and be tempted not to worry about it much. But sometimes life circumstances change, so it's wise to avoid any type of prepayment penalty if you can. A typical prepayment penalty might equal five months worth of monthly loan payments, so it's worth checking on. Of course, you should always ask (before you sign) if a new loan has a prepayment penalty. In fact, ask the lending officer to point out to you in the document where a prepayment penalty is discussed.
Most items in a loan are subject to negotiation. If you haven't signed loan papers yet, and you find that your loan has a prepayment penalty, you might offer to pay an additional closing point or so to see if it can be removed. The key at this stage is that if you agree to the prepayment penalty, you should try to find ways to reduce either the amount, the term, or both as much as possible.
If you already have a loan, you are bound by the terms of the document, unless you can negotiate them. There are perfectly legitimate reasons why you may want to pay off a note early - most often, due either to refinancing or selling the house. You may be able to contact your lender to see if they will waive the prepayment penalty if they are able to provide refinancing. If interest rates have dropped a lot, and you can't get out of the prepayment penalty, it may be worth rolling that amount into a new loan. And of course, try to get the new loan without a prepayment penalty.

The Zero Down 80/20 Mortgage

This is an excellent loan for those that are lacking the down payment required for other types of mortgages.
The 80 20 mortgage is simply two loans for 100% of the purchase price. It is a first mortgage at 80% of the purchase price with a 20% second mortgage.
If you are a conforming borrower, doing your loan in this manner will save you from having to pay mortgage insurance. Mortgage insurance is almost always required when you have less than 20% down. But with the 80 20 loan you avoid this necessary evil.
If you are a sub-prime borrower, doing you loan in this manner will typically keep your interest rates ½% to 2.5% lower than doing a 100% one loan. A 100% one loan is simply one loan for the entire purchase price.
Many times you will have two choices when it comes to the second mortgage portion of the 80 20 mortgage. The second mortgage can either be a fixed second mortgage or it can be a line of credit.
If it is a fixed second mortgage. The interest rate is fixed for the entire length of the mortgage. Most fixed second mortgages are a 30 due in 15. Meaning that the second mortgage is amortized over 30 years, but is due in 15 years. Basically it is a balloon payment. Don't let this scare you. Statistically people refinance or sell their home every 7 to 9 years any ways.
If it is a line of credit as the second mortgage. The interest rate will fluctuate as the Federal Reserve adjusts the prime interest rate up or down. The benefit of going with the line of credit as the second mortgage is that the interest rate is normally much lower than the fixed second mortgages rate. It can be 2% to 5% lower.
If you are considering doing the 80 20 loan have your loan officer compare the two different options if you have both available to you.
You may also want to consider an 80 20 interest only loan. The interest only loan could save you hundreds of dollars in mortgage payments every month. This can help you purchase a more expensive home or keep the payments down on the home you want to buy.

Reasons To Get A Home Equity Loan

Using a home equity loan really depends on what your needs, wants and desires are that prompt you to take the home equity loan in the first place.
The most common reason people obtain the loan is for debt consolidation however other uses include home improvements, educational expenses, unexpected family emergencies, medical expenses and in some cases for big ticket purchases.
As expected debt consolidation is the primary reason many people obtain a home equity loan. The thinking is sound especially if they're stuck paying anywhere from 17% to 21% in credit card debt. Department store cards are another money eater that using a home equity loan to pay off could be considered smart.
Paying for an education with the loan could prove beneficial in the long run but I'm hesitant to advocate taking out a loan for that reason. The only other reason I could recommend getting a home equity loan would be to pay for a home improvement project that could increase your home's value and could also make you feel better about your house.
For absolutely no reason would I ever advise anyone to take a home equity loan out to make a big ticket purchase. It simply doesn't make financial sense in the long run. As far as for medical reasons or family emergencies I would take that case by case to determine if it would be a smart decision.

Types of Home Equity Loans

There are at least two types of home equity loans.
The first is a term or closed end loan and the second is basically a line of credit. Most people prefer to refer to them as a second mortgage because they are secured against your home much like your first home loan or mortgage. Typically these types of home equity loans usually have a payback life of between 5 and 15 years.
The term loan is a one-time lump sum payment that is paid off over a set amount of time. There is a fixed interest rate which allows for the same loan repayment each month. After you get your money you cannot borrow further from the loan.
A home equity loan line of credit works more like a credit card. You are allowed to borrow up to a certain amount for the life of the loan. The time limit is usually set by the lender of the loan. During that time you can withdraw money as you require it to purchase items or pay for things that interest you. As you pay off the principal your credit revolves and you can use it again. This credit line gives you more flexibility than a term home equity loan.
Which ever of the two types of home equity loans that you should use depends on your unique situation. You can base your decision on some common questions such as how much money will you need, how long will you need the money for, how long will you need to pay the loan off and how much of a monthly payment can you afford.
Timothy Gorman is a successful webmaster and publisher of Military-Loans-Online.com. He provides more free financial information and types of home equity loans that you can research in your pajamas on his website.

Free Home Equity Loan Information

Home equity loan information can sometimes be confusing and misleading. I have written this article to properly explain home equity loans. Basically equity is the difference between your home's appraised -- or fair market value and the outstanding mortgage balance you owe on your home. Borrowing against the equity built up in a home has become extremely popular.
If you're wondering why this has become popular it's due to the tax deductions and the low interest rates that are current in today's housing loan market. It's also because of the growth of equity in most people's homes.
For instance if you buy a house for $100,000 with a down payment of $20,000 and have made payments of $10,000 towards the principal then you would have $30,000 in equity. But wait suppose your house has increased in worth to $120,000 in that case then you would have $50,000 in equity that you could use for a home equity loan.
This equity is very valuable because you can use it without selling your home. Banks consider this equity to be secure since it is based on your house so they are more inclined to give you lower rates when loaning money against the equity.
However, don't be mislead. The cost for these loans is higher then your actual mortgage rate but since many people use their home equity loan to pay off credit cards or make house improvements they end up paying less then if they had gotten a traditional loan. Best of all the interest on this type of loan is also tax deductible. When you add it all up you can actually save money in finance charges.
Anyone using this type of loan must be careful though because if a person defaults or fails to make payments on this loan then the bank can forclose on your house which could prove to be a financial nightmare for the careless borrower. For this reason I recommend using caution when using a home equity loan.
Timothy Gorman is a successful webmaster and publisher of Military-Loans-Online.com. He provides more free financial and home equity loan information that you can research in your pajamas on his website

Understanding a UK Commercial Mortgage

In many ways a commercial mortgage is just like a residential mortgage in that you pledge real property as collateral against a loan to either buy or refinance that property. You can also receive a commercial re-mortgage and use it as a line of credit for any business purpose.
When you use a commercial mortgage to buy property, or to raise funds for any other business purpose, the lender retains an interest in that property until the loan has been paid in full. Unlike other types of business loans, which usually have a relatively short repayment period, you can take out a loan for as long as 30 years if you like.
The lender receives repayment of the commercial mortgage principal and interest over the lifetime of the loan. If you default on the loan and go into arrears then the lender can foreclose and take possession of the property that was used as collateral.
Generally speaking, the interest on a commercial mortgage is tax deductible and the net proceeds of the loan are not considered to be taxable income. However, you should always check with your accountant to be sure because the tax consequences can be severe should it be determined that your usage of the funds was not for a qualified business purpose.
Should you be seeking a commercial mortgage for the purposes of operating your business, rather than actually buying property, then the lender will either want to re-finance your current mortgage, and include enough money to provide the amount that you are seeking, or they may arrange an equity line where they lend you the difference between the current value of your commercial property and the amount that you owe on the current mortgage.
There are generally two types of interest schemes available when you are applying for a commercial mortgage.
The fixed rate commercial mortgage establishes an interest rate that is in place either for the life of the loan or for a fixed period of time. If it is for a fixed period of time then it will normally convert over to the second type of rate, which is called a variable interest rate, after the fixed time period expires.
In some cases your lender may add a Early Redemption Charge (ERC) clause to your commercial mortgage contract which states that if you pay off the note prior to the end of the fixed rate period then the lender is entitled to a one-time lump fee to offset their loss of expected income. In some cases this ERC may extend to longer periods possibly up to the entire term of the loan. Be very sure to read your loan contract carefully to make sure that you understand the implications of the ERC if it is present.
With competition from lenders heating up you'll find that many of them are dropping ERC clauses all together. If there is one present in your loan contract you may be able to negotiate it away with little effort. It's worth trying in any case and you can always apply somewhere else if your lender is not willing to negotiate.
In the case of a variable interest rate commercial mortgage the rate is based upon those issued by Bank of England. The lender will usually state that the rate consists of the published rate, which will likely vary up and down over the life of the loan, plus some pre-determined premium that remains the same for the life of the loan. Be sure that you understand how frequently your rate will change and that you are comfortable with the amount that the lender is charging as a premium. As with any terms of your loan you can negotiate both of these factors.
A fixed rate commercial mortgage is a good choice when you feel that interest rates are headed up sharply and you want to lock in the current rates. On the other hand, if interest rates are in flux, and economic indicators point to a downtrend, then a variable rate may be your best choice.
Keep this strategy in mind during the lifetime of your commercial mortgage. If you are locked into a fixed rate, and interest rates have dropped significantly below what you are paying, you should consider applying for a re-mortgage and selecting a variable interest rate to take advantage of the lower rates. On the other hand, if you are in a variable, and all indicators are that interest rates will be skyrocketing soon, then look to move into a fixed rate so you can protect yourself against future increases.

Housing Bill - Changes in the Right To Buy Scheme

Presently council tenants are able to purchase their rented property after 2 years of tenancy. However, this is about to change. As of the 18th January 2005, the new Housing Bill becomes law and the current 2 years will change to a period of 5 years. This means, that once the proposals come into force, any new council tenant will have to wait 5 years before having the option of buying their property.
There is also a proposal to extend the period during which landlords can require owners to repay some or all, of the discount given on a property in the case of an early resale.
Currently, purchasers of a property that has been bought on the right to buy scheme, can sell after 3 years with no requirement to make any repayments of the discount. The proposal suggests this should be extended to 5 years. Therefore, anyone who sells a property bought under the right to buy scheme within 5 years of the purchase, will be requested to repay a percentage of the given discount. Repayment figures are as follows: -
Currently Sale within the 1st year - 100% Sale within the 2nd year - 66% Sale within the 3rd year - 33%
Proposal amounts Sale within the 1st year - 100% Sale within the 2nd year - 80% Sale within the 3rd year - 60% Sale within the 4th year - 40% Sale within the 5th year - 20%
With the predicted drop in house prices in 2005 (meaning lower property valuations) combined with the new proposals further restrictions on council tenants wishing to purchase, now may be a good time to consider a right to buy.
The proposed changes in the right to buy scheme include measures to reduce the attraction of purchasing a discounted property with the prospect of selling it to make a profit.
The initial idea of the right to buy scheme was to give ordinary families the opportunity to own their own homes, something they may not have been able to afford otherwise. However there are concerns about the effects this has had on local housing stock and a number of people profiteering from potential windfalls in expensive property areas.
Exploitation in the Right to Buy Scheme
There have been several schemes where third party companies encourage tenants to purchase their homes under the right to buy scheme, by offering them cash incentives. The tenant purchases the property at a discounted price under the right to buy scheme and simultaneously exchanges contracts to sell the property to the company after 3 years at which point no discount penalty will be repayable. The tenant will lease the property to the company and move out of the home with a cash sum. This leaves the company free to rent out the property at the current market rental rates.
After three years the tenant sells the property to the company. The company will either continue to rent the property at market rates or the property will be sold on at a substantial profit.
The incentive for the tenant is the lump sum offered, which can be anywhere from £5000 to £26000 but is usually a percentage of the equity of the purchased property. This could be attractive to tenants who do not wish to purchase their current home or hope to purchase a property in another area as it will give them a ready made deposit to buy another home.
The new proposals are designed to make this type of sale less attractive and prevent profiteering as well as securing local housing for the less well off.
The proposed changes in section 180 and 182-189 of the Housing Act 2004 will come into effect on 18/1/2005.
For more information on a right to buy mortgage, visit Right To Buy website.
Nicola Bullimore has been working with people to resolve debt problems for a number of years. For more information regarding debt issues, please visit Debt Questions website.

A New Choice for Home Financing: Correspondent Lenders

When you begin your search for a new home loan, one of the first things to consider is where you'll get the money. Your basic choices will be mortgage brokers and banks.
Your first instinct may be to go with your local bank, who you know from doing business with them for other things, such as your checking and saving accounts. But you've probably also heard that mortgage brokers can get you a better interest rate, since they deal with hundreds of lending sources. It can be confusing, but there's a third source of funding that combines the best of both--the correspondent lender.
In order to understand the differences, let's look at how the lending process works in each case. Mortgage bankers are given rate sheets by their institutions, telling them what interest rates they can quote to their clients on any given day. There's only so much a bank can do, with regard to interest rates, because it needs to remain profitable in order to stay in business.
Mortgage brokers have an advantage in that regard. They're not loaning their own money, and are free to "shop your loan around," looking for the best terms from various lending sources. They make their money by getting loans at discount prices and then marking them up, making money on the difference. Since they have many sources to choose from, they can often find loans at lower rates than most banks.
The third alternative, correspondent lenders, combines the best features from both groups. Correspondent lenders are similar to mortgage bankers in that they make the lending decision and fund the loan with their own money or credit line. However, as soon as a loan has closed, it's sold to another lender at a previously negotiated price. It's the best of both worlds for you as a borrower. You'll be dealing with the banker who is funding your loan, yet that banker is able to shop your mortgage around, which can obtain you a lower interest rate.
Correspondent lenders can sometimes be difficult to find, since they're generally smaller institutions, operating on a regional basis, and it can be hard to tell whether a lender is a broker or a banker, based solely on the company's name. One way to find out is by visiting the lender's website, if they have one. You'll normally find a button you can click that will bring up a page containing a detailed description of the company. If the lender doesn't have a website, you may find their phone number in the Yellow Pages.
Although they may not always be easy to locate, with a little digging, you may find that a correspondent lender offers an attractive alternative to a banker or mortgage broker when it comes to shopping for your next home loan.

Are Biweekly Mortgages Really Worthwhile?

You may have heard people, especially mortgage lenders, extolling the virtues of biweekly payments, saying that you can save thousands of dollars and take 5-7 years off your mortgage--and then offering to set up a biweekly plan for you for as little as $400. But you don't have to spend $400 to begin saving money and time on your mortgage. In fact, you don't have to spend anything at all! You can set up a money-saving mortgage payment plan yourself--easily and at no extra cost.
The key is to look carefully at the fine print in many biweekly plans. You find that even though you'd be making biweekly payments, the lender may only post them to your account on a monthly basis, which means that you wouldn't be saving anything on interest, because mortgage interest is paid in arrears (as opposed to rent payments, which are paid in advance). Your only real savings would be in the fact that you'd be making the equivalent of one extra payment a year. That's a good thing, of course, but you don't need to pay someone $400-500, possible monthly maintenance fees, to be able to accomplish the same results.
Here's how biweekly payments save time and money: By making biweekly payments, you actually end up making an extra monthly payment each year. Over the course of a year, you'd make 26 payments (one every other week for 52 weeks), which is the same as making 13 monthly payments. Making one extra payment per year will shorten the life of your loan and save you thousands of dollars.
But you don't have to make biweekly payments to obtain those savings. Here are a couple examples of how you can save big money, using the same basic idea:
If you get paid every two weeks, divide your monthly principal and interest payment in half and then send your lender a check for that amount during those months in which you receive three paychecks. Just sending in those two extra checks will be the equivalent of one extra payment a year.
If you don't want to send lump checks, you can get the same results by dividing your monthly principal and interest payment by twelve and then adding that extra amount to your payment every month. Normally, that figure won't put too much extra strain on your budget, and it will add an extra mortgage payment to your loan every year.
You really can save significant amounts of money and shorten the life of your loan by making extra payments, but you definitely don't have to pay a lender $400-500 to do it. Making those extra payments is easy to do yourself, and at no extra charge--which is always a good thing.

Total Cost Of Credit vs Monthly Payments

I read a press release the other day which points to the fact we need to be very careful with our finances. The subject of the release was home mortgages. A company was announcing the availability of 40 year mortgages for its customers. The stated purpose was to lower the monthly payments to make buying a home more affordable.
Whenever I hear the phrase "more affordable", I put my hand on my wallet because the attempt to empty it will begin any moment. Almostnever is that phrase used in relation to the total cost of financing. It isalways used in reference to the size of the monthly payment, as in this example.
Let's see what it really means. I did the math. A mortgage for a $100,000 home at 6% for 30 years would have a monthly payment of about $600 for principal and interest. You would pay about $216,000 over the life of the loan of which $116,000 would be interest..
A mortgage on that same home for 40 years would be at 6.25%, with a monthly payment of $565. The payments over the life of the loan would total about $271,200 and $171,200 of the total would be interest.
The forty year mortgage has a higher interest rate (usually between.25 and .50 percent) because the lender has his money at risk for a longer time (Lenders are well aware that time is money. You should be as aware).
This higher rate coupled with the extra ten years of the loan, has the borrower paying 47% more interest, or $55,000 more over the life of the loan. Even with a lower payment that supposedly makes it more affordable to purchase that home. Sounds like a pretty good deal for the lender.
Another problem the borrower faces is building equity much more slowly in the beginning of the loan. The extra interest expense paid for the extended length of the loan prevents equity from building up quickly. All of this for a monthly payment that is only $35 less.
You need to think in terms of overall cost and not just monthly payments. The total cost is what you will give back to your creditors. The focus on the monthly payment takes attention away from the total amount to be repaid. You need to look at this with any indebtedness, car payments, personal loans, credit cards: figure the total cost, not just what you pay each month.
You'll begin to hear more about these loans I'm sure. Think long and hard before you lengthen your indebtedness. The goal is to become debt free and to do it as fast as possible. Advise your families and friends to do the same.

How Good a Deal Is Your Banks Mortgage Insurance Plan?

When you go to the bank to get a mortgage, you'll inevitably be asked to take out mortgage insurance. The idea behind mortgage insurance is simply that if something happens to you or your spouse then your loan will be paid off which is good news for your family and the bank. Most financial institutions act like they are doing you a favor by offering you mortgage insurance through their own group plan, but are they?
The truth is that you could probably get a much better deal and at least an equal amount of protection by shopping around for your own insurance policy.
Essentially, mortgage insurance is no different than term-life insurance. With both, your policy only lasts for a specified period of time and pays its benefits if something happens to you or your spouse. The real difference comes down to how much control you'll have over your policy and how much you'll pay for it.
If you choose to use the mortgage insurance offered by the bank, you will not be able to customize a policy to fit your needs and you'll be lumped together with other borrowers under a group plan. Because of this, you will only have limited control over your policy. For example, through a third party provider, you would be able to choose your own beneficiary, decide how to spend the proceeds if necessary, and cancel the policy at any time. You would not have these options with a lending institution.
Additionally, the bank maintains the right to not renew your policy and to cancel the policy when you sell the house. If you find your own insurance provider, you can make those decisions yourself.
The other big difference is cost. A third party insurance policy's premiums will not go up, so you would pay the same premium today that you'd pay ten years from now. You won't get that same guarantee from a bank which can and probably will increase your premiums during the life of the policy. In most cases, you'll probably pay more through a bank anyway. In fact, you could pay as much as 40% more than you would if you shopped around and found your own insurance provider. Not to mention that the policy you take out through your bank will gradually decrease in value while a plan you select from an outside source will be worth the same amount during the entire policy period.
Of course, many people don't mind paying more for their mortgage insurance because it's more convenient than dealing with insurance agents. The truth is that you can easily find a policy that fits your needs and provides affordable premiums via the Internet. An organization, such as the Hughes Trustco Group, can even generate quotes for you from multiple insurance providers so you'll know that you're receiving the best deal possible on the policy you want.
The bottom line is that mortgage insurance is important and should be part of your home buying or refinancing preparations, but that does not mean you need to pay more or let the bank make important decisions for you. Instead, you should find your own personal plan from a third party provider which will let you stay in control of your policy and will save you money in the long run.

Bankers Dont Want You to Know That You Pay for Your No Cost Home Loan Forever

With mortgage rates continuing on a downward trend, the competition in the business is fierce. A day never passes that I don't hear some crazy advertisement about a new loan program that XYZ mortgage company has and no one else offers. One of the oldest programs remains steadfast in both its high profile and its duplicity. This program is the No Cost Home Loan -- the one bankers say is free, but you actually pay for as long as you have the loan.
The no closing cost home loan is virtually everywhere. It is advertised in the mail, on radio and on TV all the time. "Hey, refinance your loan today, and there will be no closing costs," the ads scream. Wow, a free loan. Imagine the money you'll save. So, if you are in the market for a refinance loan or home equity line, which you probably should be, with rates at all-time lows, you might consider running to XYZ mortgage company, who is now offering free mortgage loans.
Just be careful you don't go bankrupt, along the way. Remember, the old cliche, Nothing in life is free, because it makes a lot of sense. You actually can get a mortgage with little or no closing costs. What bankers don't tell you (one of their great secrets) is that you pay a higher interest rate than you really qualify for, when you get your loan for "free." So, you might save $2,000 or $3,000 in closing costs, but your monthly payment could be $100 to $300 higher than it would have been if you had actually paid the costs.
Imagine taking this loan and saving $2,000 in total closing costs. Perhaps you borrow $200,000. Now, if you simply pay all the costs and tell the banker you want the best rate available, let's say it is 6% for this example, you would have a monthly payment of $1,199. Now, let's assume the wiley banker convinces you to pay no closing costs and take an in terest rate of 7%. He might say, "Now, your interest rate will be a bit higher, but you'll save $2,000 in closing costs." Sounds great, you might think.
What he doesn't do, though, is spell out the difference in the 6% rate you could qualify for, versus the 7% rate you choose to take for your "free" loan. If you borrow $200,000 at 7% interest, your monthly payment is $1,330. This is $131.00 more each month than you will pay on the same loan at 6% interest.
If you choose to pay the closing costs and save $131.00 monthly, it will take you 15 months to get your $2,000 in closing costs back. Now, if you keep this loan for five years beyond that first 15 months, you will save an additional $7,860 at the 6% interest rate. If you listen to the crafty banker, selling the No Cost Loan, you'll allow nearly eight thousand dollars to drift right up your home's chimney.
Unless the difference in the interest rate on your no closing cost loan and the loan with costs is a tiny amount, say .125%, you are almost always better off paying the costs. Be sure to ask what the difference in the rates is. Then learn exactly what the total closing costs will be. Calculate the difference in the two monthly payments (one with closing costs and one without). If that amount will pay back your closing costs in two years or less, and you intend to remain in your loan for at least five years, pay the costs and take the better rate.

Selling Your Business Note

Before I go further, let me ask a question- if you won the lottery tomorrow, would you take the payout in a lump sum or in monthly payments?
Most people would take a lump sum because even though it might be less than the total prize, they would have control over a large sum of money now and could let the time value of money go to work and increase their winnings.So why then would you opt to get paid on your business sale over several years rather than take a lump sum payout?
The answer is probably because you didn't know that you could get cash for your business note. Peacock Capital can help you to sell your business note at a discount and cash out now, rather than later.
Advantages to sell your business note include:
? Walk away from a business you didn't want without having a financial anchor still attached to you for the next several years
? Use the balance owed to you to fund a new business, pay off debts or finance education for yourself or your loved ones- now!
? Avoid the risk that the buyer will default on the loan
? Avoid the risk of the buyer going bankrupt
? No need to wait for monthly payments
If you are going to sell your business, the following criteria should be structured into your note so that it will be more attractive to investors for purchase:
? Down payment of 30% or more
? Personal guarantee from the buyer
? Short term financing - the shorter the term the better
? Minimal seasoning of the note is needed - usually two months at least, depending on the type of business.
A note for a business that has substantial tangible assets will be easier to sell compared to one that does not - example: machine shop versus a coffee stand.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Forex Broker Commissions

Most forex brokers do not charge commissions. GFT Forex Brokers, like other forex brokers, are compensated by revenues from their activities as currency dealers, including proceeds from buying, selling, converting and holding currencies, interest on deposited funds, and rollover fees.

Many may wonder how brokers work without commissions. The forex dealer is like a middleman. Let's consider the case of a bread middleman. He buys bread at a “wholesale” price and he sells it at a “retail” price. So if one is a baker, he can ask the middleman how much he would buy his bread for. Let's say the middleman quotes $1, so he's willing to pay $1 per loaf.

On the other side of the equation, let's say you just finished his last slice of bread, and you needs a new loaf. So you call up the local middleman, and ask him how much he's willing to sell you (a customer) a loaf of bread for. And he quotes the baker $1.25. That sounds reasonable, so you tell him to drop one off for you.

In this example, the bread middleman didn't charge you a commission to either the baker or you, the customer. Instead he bought at one price and sold at another. He will let you buy from him at $1.25, and let you sell to him at $1. So every time the baker has bread to sell, he checks the middleman's sell price. And when you want to buy a loaf of bread, you check the buy price.
In trading, this is known as the “bid” and “ask”. The bid is the price you can sell at, and the ask is the price you can buy at.

Considering forex broker commissions, the forex dealer will let the trader buy from him at 1.1971 and will let the trader sell to him at 1.1967. The difference 0.0004 is known as the spread. And this spread is where the forex “middleman” makes his money.

If the trader were to buy at 1.1971, then the instant the trader buys, he is “down” 0.0004, because if the trader wanted out of the trade, the best price he could sell it for is 1.1967. So as the forex dealer takes varying trades from people, each buying or selling, he can make money from this price gap. Each minimum increment, 0.0001 is referred to as a “pip”. So the spread in this example is 4 pips. In terms of dollars, for a forex contract of $100,000, this transaction would cost you $40 ($100,000 x 0.0004) or 4 pips. So the trader will find that some companies will advertise a spread of 3 pips on some currencies, usually ranging up to five on others. In forex trading, the tighter the spread is, the better.

Investing Stock Market ABC’s

While most folks today trust mutual funds and their professional managers with their investments, it’s still important to understand the basics of the stock market. Although investing in individual stocks may not be right for everyone, a basic understanding of the stock market is essential to understanding the workings of our economy and business sector.

A stock is a portion of ownership in a company. Commonly referred to as a share, it is a small percentage of the total ownership pool for the corporation. Shareholders are stock owners, or people who have an ownership interest in the corporation. Today, shares are usually tracked electronically, but in previous decades shareholders would actually receive a certificate stating their ownership.

Why own stocks? First, you are sharing in the company’s profits. When a corporation shows a profit, they will sometimes distribute these profits to each shareholder, based on how much stock they own. This distribution is called a dividend. Company’s can elect to pay out their profits or reinvest them in the company, but as a shareholder, each time a payout is made you will receive your proportionate share.

Also, the value of your stock will rise and fall based on the company’s perceived value in the stock market. If you buy a share at $10.00 and it rises to $11.00 a share, you’ve made a dollar for each share you own, and subsequently sell. However, with this opportunity comes risk as well. If the share price falls and you sell, you’ll lose money. The more volatile the stock, the more opportunity for risk or profit.

Most shareholders track their stocks using the stock table. These appear confusing and difficult to read, but they are actually easy to understand with a little practice.

Ticker symbol is listed first. This is the abbreviated symbol that the stock market uses to identify your company. For example, GE is General Electric, WMT is Walmart. Once you select a company, you’ll need to know it’s shorthand name to track its progress.

Second, the company’s name may be listed. Some tables omit the name to save space, others list it to make tracking stocks easier.

The third item is the number of sales in the last trading day. This is listed in the 100,000’s, so 256 means 256,000 shares were bought and sold on the last day that the market was open.

Next are the high and low price, in that order. The high price is the highest per share price that the stock sold for on the previous trading day. The low price is the lowest price for that day. Since the price of the shares moves all day long, this is a good reference to see how much the stock is changing in a day.

Next, the closing price is listed. This is the last price that the stock traded for as the market closed. This will also be the beginning price for the next trading day.

After the closing price, the table will list the change, or the amount that the stock changed when you compare yesterday’s closing price with the closing price for the day before. This will be listed as a positive number (the stock went up) or a negative number (the stock sold for less yesterday than the day before).

Stock tables are found in many places, but most people check their daily paper or the Wall Street Journal. There are many internet sites that track stocks as well.

Of course, you’ll have to select a stock. Choose carefully or consult a professional, and good luck!

How Many Forex Order Types There Are and How to Use Them In Your Favor.

Once you have decided to enter the Forex trading world, one of the first things you will have to do is downloading the trading station provided by your chosen forex broker for free. When you open your trading station software, you will find there are two main ways to enter a market or, said in another way, there are two ways to place an initial order to buy or sell any currency pair.

“Market order”; this is an order to buy or sell a currency pair at the market price the instant that the order is received and processed (within seconds of hitting the "OK" button on your screen). When a market order is placed, you are simply saying "I'll buy or sell the currency pair at whatever price it is at when my order gets processed."

“Entry order”; this is an order to buy or sell a currency pair when it reaches a certain price target. This can be any price in theory. You could set an entry order for the low price of a time period, or the high price of a time period. As an example, one usual recommendation is that you must always set an entry order to be the same price as the ‘open price” of the time period. When you place an “entry order” to buy, for example, you are simply saying "I want to buy this currency pair at a certain price, if it never reaches that price, I don't want to purchase the pair."

After your “entry order” is placed, you can set a stop and/or limit order if you desire, and for your own security. Stop and Limit orders are two different ways to exit a trade, automatically (i.e., without closing out your position via the click of your mouse - manually), after the trade is entered.

A “stop order” (something I will always recommend you) is used to stop losses. A “limit order” (recommended if you can't monitor your open trade) is used to redeem profits. Where these orders are placed, in relation to your open trade, depends on the direction of the entry order.

Remember; a “stop order” is always placed below the current market value of that currency pair when you are in a long (buy) trade. And a “limit order” is always placed above the current market value of that currency pair when you are in a long (buy) trade.

Comments on Forex Trading Account Sizes, Lots and Margin Calls.

Forex trading is one of the best business opportunities you can think of joining these days. No other market in the world allows the “Leverage” that the profitable world of currency-trading does. Leverage is all about margin trading. In the Forex market, it is essentially the ratio of the amount used in a trade to the required security deposit needed, by the particular broker you chose to use, for that trade.

Normally, for most brokerages, a margin deposit of just $1,000 allows you to control a $100,000 position in the Forex market. That's 100:1 leverage, or 1%. Or, said in a different way, a “regular full-sized account”, sometimes referred to as a 100k account, allows you to trade with lot sizes equal to $100,000. Each lot is worth $100,000 in currency. So It would only require $1,000 to trade one lot.

This great feature in Forex trading is what makes this market the hottest market to trade in right now. The Forex broker has given you a loan of $99,000 dollars secured only by your $1,000! This is a huge loan and, as you may know by now, this is what allows traders to make extraordinary incomes in this market. And, as you also are probably used to hearing , "leverage is a two-edged sword" , it is what can cause you to lose a lot of money if you trade without rules or Stop-loss orders.

But just as an example, let's say you were a person that likes to trade with reckless abandon, i.e., with no strategy, no common sense, no money- management principles, etc. That’s never recommended for anyone, but being a Forex trader has such great advantages, that even someone with a trading mind like the one described before, will never lose more than what he has placed into a trade.

Unlike Futures (Commodity Trading), the market that most people associate with High leverage, you can never have a debit balance when trading Forex.

So, despite the greater leverage associated with FX trading, it is still arguably less risky than futures trading. Futures markets are often prone to sudden and dramatic moves, against which you can’t protect yourself, even by trading with protective stops. Your position may be liquidated at a loss, and you’ll be liable for any resulting deficit in the account. But because of the Forex markets great liquidity and 24-hour, continuous trading, dangerous trading gaps and limit moves are very unprobable. Orders are executed quickly, without slippage or partial fills, which is just great.

And as it was not enough, there are no margin calls, for your protection, the forex broker's trading platform will automatically close out some or all of your open positions if your account equity, meaning the total floating value of the account, falls below the level required to hold the positions. Think of this as a final, automatic stop, always working on your behalf to prevent a debit balance.

9 Deadly Mistakes of the Stock Trader

The following are a list of nine things you want to avoid at all costs. Anyone of them can literally destroy your financial dreams and goals!

1. Trading with money you can't afford to lose.
One of the greatest obstacles to successful trading is using money that you really can’t afford to lose. Examples of this would be money that is supposed to be used to pay the mortgage, bills or your child’s college tuition. This is sometimes referred to as “trading with scared money” and there is a very good reason for that. Ultimately what happens is that when someone knows in the back of their mind that they are risking the rent money, they trade out of fear and emotion versus logic and no emotion. If you are in this situation I highly recommend that you stop trading until you earn enough to put into an account that you truly can afford to lose without causing major financial setbacks. You can start with as little as $2000 and trade stocks under $30.

2. The need to be "certain".
We all have the need to make sure that the trade we want to make is going to be a good one. Therefore we look for signs that will give us a confirmation to enter. This can come in several forms, for example… Tuning into CNBC or the Wall Street Journal to give us news that our stock is on the move or waiting for a couple of extra days to make sure that the stock is really flying and just not on a false breakout. Other traders will get opinions from friends, family or broker. Others will wait for ten technical indicators to line up and give the “green light”.

All of these are okay to a point, however the big mistake to avoid is taking so much time that you let the trade take off without you. Interestingly, what ends up happening as a result of waiting too long is that you actually increase your risk. This is because as a stock moves higher and higher there are fewer buyers left in the market and it can come tumbling down until more buyers step in. It is like a game of musical chairs; eventually someone gets caught without a chair.

Traders who wait and wait and wait to make extra sure are usually the ones buying the top tick just before the stocks sells off. They then beat themselves up thinking they picked the wrong stock. Odds are it had nothing to do with their selection, just bad timing.

The thing to keep in mind is that there can be no absolute certainty in any given trade. All we ever can do is take a very educated risk along with a leap of faith!

3. Spending profits before you make them.
Nothing is more exciting then getting into a trade that blasts off and puts you into a highly profitable situation. This can cause major problems however, because this type of trade puts you in a highly euphoric state and leads to daydreaming about the huge profits still to come. You say “Wow I’m already up 15% in two days; I’ll be up 50% in a week and probably double my money in no time!” Then the next thing that happens is you are deciding on the great new car you are going to buy or perhaps telling your boss that he can stick it… Well you get the idea!

The real problem occurs as you get caught up in the daydream and expectations. This causes you to not be prepared to get out as the market sells off and eats up your profits because you have convinced yourself of the eventual outcome and will deny the reality of the situation.

The simple remedy for this is to know where and how you will take profits once you enter the trade. Also, realize that the market will only go up as long as it wants and not how high you think it should go.

4. Forming an opinion.
I’m here to tell you that the market does not give a damn about you or your opinions. Even if they are based on painstaking research or from a “Wall Street Guru”, it doesn’t matter!

5. Three 4-letter words that will kill you! HOPE---WISH---PRAY
If you ever find yourself doing one or more of the above while in a trade then you are in big trouble! As I have already said, the market doesn’t give a damn. All the hoping, wishing and praying in the world is not going to turn a losing trade into a winning one.

When you are wrong just use a simple 4-letter word to correct the situation-SELL!

6. Not sticking to your plan
A big source of trouble arises when a trader starts to deviate from their strategy. Maybe for a week they will trade according to one set of rules and the next use something entirely different.

This flying by the seat of the pants always ends up backfiring. This is because the trader can never be certain what is working and what is not.

You must never deviate from your methodology once you start. As long as it is a good one statistically there is absolutely no reason to change it. The way to make money from it is to trade it over and over again to exploit the edge it gives you.

One thing to also be aware of is that a trader is most vulnerable to switching approaches after a few loses. So, pay special attention at these times.

7. Not knowing how to get out of a losing trade.
It’s amazing how many people I have talked to who don’t have any clear escape plan for getting out of a bad trade. Once again they hope, pray wish and rationalize their position. As I keep saying the market does not care what you think. It does what it does and when you are wrong you are wrong!

The easiest way to keep a bad trade from going really bad is to determine before you get in, where you will get out. You can use a dollar amount or at some target point such as the low of the previous 15-minute bar.

***Make sure you don’t get the “stunned deer in the headlights syndrome”. This is where you see the stock fall to your stop loss point, but you are unable to take action. Maybe this is due to fear or disbelief that you are wrong, but unless you get out ASAP you could end up I major financial trouble!

8. Having an ego.
I have seen a number of individuals enter the trading game that were extremely successful in other business ventures. Because of this they had a fairly big ego and thought they couldn’t fail. Their egos became their downfall because they couldn’t except that they were wrong and refused to bail out of bad trades.

Once again, whoever or wherever you came from does not concern the markets. All the charm, powers of persuasion, number of diplomas on the wall or business savvy will not budge the market when you are wrong.

9. Falling in love with a stock or trade.
Let me give you an example of what I mean. Back in the spring of 1999 EFAX was a really hot stock. I waited to buy it on a dip and did so at $19/share. It started to move up strongly and life was great!

After a while though, it started to come back to my entry point and then below it. Here’s the problem. For some reason I really liked EFAX and sort of became attached to it. Ultimately I couldn’t let go of it even though I knew I should. I justified and rationalized why my dear friend should bounce back, but it never did. I finally had to break off my love affair when the stock hit $9. (Ouch!)

The moral of this story is never fall in love, let alone get married to any stock. It can cost you dearly!